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GPS Receiver Suggestions from Successful Users

I received a note from Mitchell Janoff "I wanted to thank you for posting the information on the HP Z3801A on your web site. I recently purchased one of these units from a gentleman in Korea who was also selling on Ebay. I might have been more cautious if I had read your web site before my purchase. It turns out I was pretty lucky. My unit is factory wired for 110v AC (uses a standard PC type power cord) operation and also has a standard 9 pin RS232 input. Since it also came with the antenna, setting it up was a snap.

I did need to get a null modem for the connection to the computer, but otherwise I didn't have any problems. Tom Van Baak gave me the UTC diag. Instruction and the reboot tip. Thanks again for providing a valuable resource.


Additional information from Chuck Zabilski, WB6MOB, on modifying the receiver to use RS232:
"I just modified a Z3801A GPS receiver and I discovered a way to get it to interface at the RS-232 level and not have to resort to RS-422. The main board has a set of uninstalled headers marked RS-232 and RS-422 respectively near the DB-25 connector. These are arranged as 3 rows of 8 connections on 0.100 inch spacing. By installing 3 rows of 8 male headers I am able to select between the RS-422 and RS-232. In terms of the jumpers and headers, I could only verify that the 1st 5 actually connected anywhere, but I went ahead and installed all 8 headers time 3 rows. The only other thing required is to flip the board over and remove the five 0 Ohm jumpers which preselected the RS-422 interface. Once these surface mount jumpers (resistors) are removed, the newly installed headers select RS-422 or RS-232."


In addition, Chuck WB6MOB modified his receiver to have a self contained power supply:
"Also the Volgen SPN75 power supply fits (barely) within the GPS receiver (towards the front). I installed an IEC 320 AC power connector in place of the DC connector and the receiver is self contained for AC in one package."
K8CU notes: This is a commercial switching power supply: Volgen SPN75-48S
. Available from Digikey part number 62-1043-ND.

A note from Ken, W6GHV : He has identified an economical switching supply that fits inside the Z3801A case. Jameco has a 48 V @ 1.35 Amp switching power supply for $29.95, as their part number 201953. The power supply mating connectors are their part numbers 104432 and 104731 (page 79 of their printed catalog). This is an open frame switcher.

Sims 4 All The Fallen Mods Better | 2027 |


Have you tried All The Fallen mods? Share your spookiest Sim story in the comments below. And remember: In the world of The Sims 4, death is only the beginning—especially when you make it better with All The Fallen.

Happy haunting (and modding)!

Searching for "All The Fallen" in the context of The Sims 4 typically refers to a highly controversial group of mods that include extremely disturbing and illegal-themed content. These mods are widely condemned by the community, and Electronic Arts (EA) has taken steps to ban accounts found using them.

If you are looking for better mods that offer deep gameplay, realism, or "darker" (but community-standard) themes without crossing into harmful territory, these highly-rated alternatives are widely recommended by the player base: 1. Essential Core Gameplay

These mods are considered "better" than almost any niche mod because they provide total control over your game and fix standard bugs.

MC Command Center (MCCC): The most essential tool for any player. It allows you to manage every aspect of Sim life, from setting custom age spans to controlling neighborhood "story progression".

UI Cheats Extension: Lets you adjust needs, money, and relationships directly by clicking on the game's interface icons. 2. Relationship & Life Realism

For players seeking deeper emotional gameplay and more realistic interactions.

Relationship and Pregnancy Overhaul (RPO): Created by Lumpinou, this mod adds layers to how Sims feel about children, cheating, and commitment, including functional custody systems and surrogacy.

Wonderful Whims: Adds a complex "attraction" system where Sims find each other attractive or unattractive based on physical traits and personalities. It also includes a period system and birth control without the explicit NSFW content of its counterpart, WickedWhims.

Slice of Life (SoL): Adds realistic "moodlets" and physical changes, like visible blushing when embarrassed or acne. 3. Dramatic & "Gritty" Gameplay

If you want your Sims to experience more intense or tragic life events, these mods from Sacrificial and Basemental are the industry standard for "darker" gameplay:

Introduction

The Sims 4, a life simulation video game developed by Maxis and published by Electronic Arts (EA), has been a favorite among gamers since its release in 2014. While the game's base content provides a solid foundation for players to build and control their Sims, the game's true potential lies in its modding community. Mods, short for modifications, are user-created content that can enhance or completely overhaul gameplay mechanics, add new items, or even introduce new features. Among the numerous mods available, "All the Fallen" mods have gained significant attention for their ability to improve and expand the game's storytelling and gameplay. sims 4 all the fallen mods better

What are All the Fallen Mods?

"All the Fallen" mods are a series of mods created by popular modder, roBurky, which aim to improve and expand the game's supernatural and paranormal content. The mods are designed to work in conjunction with the game's existing storyline and mechanics, providing a more immersive experience for players. The mods cover a wide range of topics, including vampires, werewolves, witches, and more.

Key Features of All the Fallen Mods

Some of the key features of the "All the Fallen" mods include:

Why are All the Fallen Mods Better?

So, what makes the "All the Fallen" mods better than other mods available for The Sims 4? Here are a few reasons:

Conclusion

In conclusion, the "All the Fallen" mods for The Sims 4 offer a wealth of new content and gameplay mechanics that enhance the game's supernatural and paranormal aspects. With their depth, complexity, stability, and community support, these mods are a must-have for any Sims 4 player looking to take their gameplay experience to the next level.

Recommendations

If you're interested in trying out the "All the Fallen" mods, here are a few recommendations:

The Sims 4 modding community often faces upheaval after major game patches, which frequently "break" essential scripts or render certain content obsolete. Most recently, the April 16, 2026 update (patch 1.123) has caused a new wave of broken mods, primarily impacting User Interface (UI) mods and certain career-based content.

Navigating these "fallen" mods—those that are broken, discontinued, or controversial—requires a mix of vigilant updating and finding high-quality alternatives that offer even better gameplay. The BEST Sims 4 mods in 2025 - Including download links

The Sims 4 players, managing "fallen" or broken mods is essential for maintaining game stability, especially following major updates like the March 18, 2026 Have you tried All The Fallen mods

patch. This guide covers how to identify broken content and use the Better Exceptions mod to keep your game running smoothly. How to Identify and Fix Broken Mods

When a game update "breaks" your mods, it often results in errors like the "failed to launch" black screen or UI glitches. The 50/50 Method

: If you have many mods, divide them into two folders. Add one half back to your game at a time to narrow down which specific file is causing the crash. Clear the Cache : Always delete the localthumbcache.package file in your The Sims 4

folder after updating or removing mods to prevent old data from interfering. Check Community Lists : Stay updated using reliable resources like Scarlet's Realm for real-time reports on broken and updated content. Downloaded Better Exceptions, now what? : r/TheSims4Mods 14 Aug 2023 —

The "Fallen" community is a notorious collective in The Sims 4

modding scene known for creating highly controversial and explicit NSFW (Not Safe For Work) content. Many players seek alternatives—often referred to as "Better" or safer mods—to enhance their game without the extreme or potentially disturbing themes associated with that group.

Below are the essential "Better" mods from reputable creators like TwistedMexi and TURBODRIVER that focus on game stability, build-mode freedom, and realistic gameplay. Essential Utility & Stability Mods

These mods are considered "must-haves" for a stable, error-free game.

Better Exceptions: Developed by TwistedMexi, this tool automatically scans your game for broken or outdated mods and provides a detailed report on what is causing crashes or UI glitches.

MC Command Center (MCCC): Created by Deaderpool, this is the ultimate "god mod" for story progression, pregnancy controls, and fixing neighborhood annoyances.

UI Cheats Extension: Allows you to right-click various UI elements to instantly fulfill needs, add money, or change the time of day. Superior Build & Design Tools

If you are looking to improve the building experience, these tools are the community standard: Broken sims 4 mods September 18 patch! #sims4

The core "Better" mods for The Sims 4 are developed by TwistedMexi Why are All the Fallen Mods Better

, a renowned modder focused on game stability and utility. These mods are essential for players who use extensive custom content (CC) or script mods, as they help identify broken files and streamline gameplay. The "Better" Series by TwistedMexi Better Exceptions

: This tool automatically scans your game for errors when a "Last Exception" occurs. It generates a detailed web report that identifies the specific mod or CC file likely causing the crash or glitch. Better BuildBuy

: This mod completely overhauls the Build/Buy catalog by organizing "debug" and "live edit" objects into proper categories. It also features expandable item rows, advanced filtering (by color, style, or pack), and a "Favorites" system. T.O.O.L. (Takes Objects Off Lot)

: While not starting with "Better," it is often bundled with them. It allows for precise placement and rotation of objects anywhere in the world, even outside active lot boundaries. Better Family Tree

: Adds search and highlight functions to the Sims family tree, along with a full-screen toggle for easier navigation of large legacies. Why These Mods Are Considered "Better" Diagnostic Precision

: Better Exceptions handles complex errors like "UI Exceptions" (warped menus or random boxes) and attempts to locate the exact culprit automatically. Built-in Cheats

: Better BuildBuy includes a "MoveObjects On" toggle, removing the need to manually type cheat codes every time you start the game. Catalog Cleanup

: It can hide standard Maxis items so you only see your custom content or specific debug items, significantly speeding up the building process. Mod Stability

: These tools often include "Patch Day Scanners" that highlight high-risk mods following a game update, helping players avoid save file corruption. Installation Best Practices Better Exceptions v3.16: "cpp_message" Improved Tracking


When a mod disappears, it crystallizes in memory. Players recall the idea of the mod more than its bugs. For instance, KawaiiStacie’s Slice of Life (SoL) was a titan of the fallen. It added memory systems, drunk moods, acne, a personality enneagram, and even a "My Period" system. When it was finally pulled due to the creator’s burnout and constant patch-breaking, many declared it irreplaceable. Was it better? In function, SoL was notoriously bloated, caused LastException errors, and often overrode emotions with constant, annoying moodlets (e.g., "Slept in Pajamas: +1 Fine"). Yet, in spirit, it was better because it tried to do everything—it turned The Sims 4’s sterile, happy sandbox into a messy, unpredictable life simulator. No current mod (not even Wonderful Whims or Healthcare Redux) replicates the sheer chaotic density of SoL at its peak. Thus, "better" here means more ambitious and emotionally volatile, not more stable.

When we say "all the fallen mods better," we mean: Better than EA’s design, better than outdated scripting mods, and better for long-term storytelling. Here is the breakdown:

A “better” system must respect creator rights:

EA’s stance? Currently permissive but cautious. A formal preservation framework would reduce piracy and bug reports, benefiting EA. Dialogue with Maxis modding liaisons is recommended.


  • Use GitHub for script mods? Sims 4 scripting is Python‑based; GitHub would enable version control, issue tracking, and pull requests for fixes.
  • Introduce Mod Health Badges (Green – Updated ≤3 months, Yellow – Last update 3–12 months, Red – Broken / deprecated).

  • Newer firmware supports a :syst:pon command older firmware does not. Rather than unplug or power down the receiver, the self test command *tst? will perform a reboot of the receiver."
    K8CU notes: I tested this on my receiver, and it appears to work. A reboot of the receiver requires that GPs acquisition be established again. This takes the receiver a minute or so to complete.

    I received a note from Dennis Polito, W6DEN:

    "I wanted to thank you for the fine article regarding this GPS receiver. The information that you compiled made the conversion and start up process relatively easy. I recently purchased one from Hi-tech Cafe and I was able to get it up and running last night. I have a couple of questions for you.

    The 10 MHz output as measured on my HP 5345A is a bit high, 10.00000131 to be precise. I compared the output to a HP 5061A Cesium standard and it is indeed off frequency. Satstat reports FFOM as a value of 1. If and when this value reaches 0 will the 10 MHz output then be correct? How long does it normally take for FFOM to achieve 0? I have had the unit on for about 3 hours as the longest power on cycle. I ran the survey and the receiver is now running in hold mode.

    Answer - In the manual, HP states that "the receiver typically reaches stable state 24 hours after power-up, and it will learn best if its experiences no holdover in the first 24 hours....thus, it is recommended that the receiver is always kept locked to GPS during the first 24 hours." When FFOM (Frequency Figure of Merit) reaches zero, the 10 MHz output frequency characteristics should meet accuracy specifications of < 1 x 10-9, one day average.

    ( Feedback: Dennis later reported to me that another Z3801A was tested and had the same apparent frequency offset. He then found that the synthesizer in his cesium standard was the source of the error.)

    My antenna has approximately 70' of RG-58 feed line, should there be a feed line delay factored in? If so, do you know what the delay factor is for this feed line? I get excellent signal strength numbers on all six satellites.

    Answer - Since I use my receiver only for frequency purposes, and not for timing, I did not enter my specific feed line numbers into Satstat. That is why the Satstat photo above shows an antenna delay of zero ns. The delay factor is related to the specific velocity factor of your coax. If the cable you use has no additional signal delay time caused by the cable dielectric material (a velocity factor of 100%), the delay factor would be the time it takes light to travel the length of the coax. Light travels almost exactly one nanosecond per foot. RG/58 with a polyethylene dielectric (not foam) has a velocity factor of 66%. The specific calculations:

    Speed of Light = 186,284 miles per second.
    5,280 (feet per mile) X 186,284 = 983,579,520 feet per second
    983,579,520 X (10 -9 ) = .98357952 foot per nanosecond
    .98357952 x 66% = .6491624832 (speed through RG/58)
    1/.6491624832 (one over x function) = 1.5404463842 or 1.54 ns per foot delay

    So for your length of cable.....70 feet of RG/58 has a time delay of 107.8 nanoseconds. The HP manual gives some examples of other cables and various lengths.

    The Satstat clock reports a +13 second error. The query "show accumulated leap" reports +13 seconds. Can this value be reset to 0?

    Answer - You are set up to view GPS time. Setting the time to reflect UTC time (see note by WB6MOB above) will correct this apparent error.
    Since GPS time is "perfect", it is off from UTC by the number of leap seconds that have been added to UTC since GPS time began in January of 1980. As of today, there have been 13 leap seconds added to UTC to compensate for variations in the earth's rotational speed. More information on this can be seen on the U.S. Naval Observatory web site.


    Cliff Ward, W5LF reports: I have two of these fine devices and the Ebay ads say they run on 32 to 48 vdc. I can tell you plainly that neither of mine will even start without 48v or more on them, with or without adding 7-8000pf at 70 of electrolytics across the dc input (which didn't work for me). Mine will start at 48 vdc but won't run at less than 46.7 volts or so.

    K8CU notes:The Z3801A is specified by HP (depending upon model) as either a nominal minus 54 or plus 27 volt device. The best bet is to keep the voltage at the nominal value specified by HP. This way any out of specification internal DC to DC converters are satisfied, and the units will perform normally. Reports from other users confirm this.


    I had an email exchange a few weeks ago regarding a power supply problem with the Z3801A. I will copy portions of it here: I have just had a very strange and distressing thing happen, and I'd like to ask you if you have any thoughts. I have two Z3801s, bought on eBay some weeks ago. I checked them out with an antenna and computer when I got them, and they seemed to work flawlessly. I put them aside 'til tonight, when a power supply I ordered was available. This is a serious HP multiple-output supply, 0-50V, .8amps.

    I connected it to one unit and found the supply voltage jumping around, a flaw I attributed to the switchers inside the Z3801. Putting a 1000uF cap across the leads fixed that, and the voltage settled down to a perfectly steady 48.00V and .560 amps. My intention was to wait 'til the oven warmed up and see how much lower the steady-state current would become. Although I had no antenna or computer connected to the Z3801, it seemed to power up OK. So far, so good. However a few minutes later, the unit died! No lights, zero power drain. Power supply still reading 48.00 volts.

    Not having a clue, I figured maybe something went wrong inside the Z3801, so I connected the second one. It powered up, the current read .559 amps, and all was well. Until, a couple of minutes later, it, too, died! Now they're both dead. I have no schematic. I see no fuses. And I can't imagine what I could have done to kill them. OTOH, the coincidence of both dying minutes after power was applied is too much to believe.

    So, and I hope you'll forgive me for the unsolicited inquiry, have you ever heard of anything like this? I have the manual for the unit, but no PS or other schematic, and I'm reluctant to rip it apart 'til I've at least asked someone familiar with the unit.

    My response was this: Okay, from my standpoint, your power supply is the culprit. Do NOT use it anymore until you are certain what is going on. The good news is that there are fuses inside the unit, and they are in the primary circuit. Go to my web-site, and scroll down to the part of the page that shows the Z3801A power supply. I describe two fuses in the primary circuit. These are different values, but look like little resistors. They are called "Pico" fuses. Look in the lower left hand side of the photograph to see them. An ohm-meter check on them will reveal what their condition is. There is another fuse described in the circuit, but it is used in the outer oven controller.

    Hopefully, all that has happened is that your power supply has taken out the primary fuse(s). I suggest building up another power supply (transformer-diode bridge-big cap) and control the voltage with a variable variac on the transformer primary. Then test your receivers with this.

    "Ripping it apart" as you describe is no big deal. All you need is a Torx size 10 driver, and simply remove the top cover. Your DC to DC converter is visible, and is right on top. You can check the fuses without removing anything inside the box. Try this, and let me know what you come up with.

    The interesting return email response: Hi again! Thought you'd be interested in the resolution of this problem.

    1: There's nothing wrong with the power supply
    2: There isn't and wasn't anything defective with either Z3801.

    Rather, the power supply is TOO GOOD, and there's a subtle design defect in the Z3801. Key is the power supply rating: .8A maximum current, and the fact that the Z3801 uses switching supplies. A switcher characteristic is one of "negative resistance" on the input. To provide a constant power output, as the input voltage decreases, the input current increases. It turns out that with a 48V supply, the Z3801 takes ~.56 amps on turn-on. However, after a few minutes, the current drain sharply increases, presumably because the oven supply is switched on. With a normal high-current supply (or CO battery), this extra few hundred MA wouldn't be noticed. But with a lab supply set to .8A maxiumm, when the oven turns on, the supply is called on momentarily to exceed its output rating. It goes into current limiting, and the output voltage starts to drop.

    Enter the Z3801 switcher: As soon as it sees the supply voltage drop, it will try to take more current, causing the voltage to drop even faster. This negative feedback cycle drains the PS output capacitor (and the cap that I added for good measure) fast enough to exceed the energy rating of the picofuse which protects the capacitor by blowing out!

    After figuring out this scenario on the way home, I tried a very simple experiment. I INCREASED the PS voltage from 48.00 to 50.50V,its maximum rating. At this voltage, the maximum current (briefly) seems to be about 780mA, and it eventually equilibrates at around 440mA. The "subtle design defect" is the fact that there is no current limiter (other than the fuse) on the input of the switcher. Of course it could be argued that if one uses a heavier supply it's not necessary, but there could certainly be an occasion where primary power is interrupted with a big capacitor remaining across the Z3801 input.

    Finally, the most astonishing thing about this adventure is that it only took me a couple of minutes to find a big reel of 3A Picofuses in the stockroom!

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